Together in Kathmandu!

It was a happy reunion with Mark at the airport in Kathmandu, after a month of doing drastically different things, and having very little contact with each other (not much in the way of internet services on the trail…). We talked non-stop for the next few days trying to get caught up.

We enjoyed a couple of leisurely days in Thamel, a clustered, colourful, captivating neighbourhood in Kathmandu, home to backpackers and trekkers, and stores catering completely to them: knock-off gear and supplies, and grocery stores with entire aisles devoted to chocolate, trail mix, and “Mountain Man” granola bars. They’ve targeted their audience well.

Ornate, decaying medieval architecture sagging against gravity; thick, carved, wooden doors, painted with logos for pop, beer, or paint companies, open to reveal closet-sized stores, jammed full of things for sale. Yak wool blankets, felted slippers, rice sack bags, knitted socks and hats, cashmere sweaters, Buddha sculptures, masks, singing bowls, and anything else you could ever want.

Doors and archways lead to alleys which lead to open squares with flag-draped stupas, painted with half-closed eyes looking at you looking at them. Telephone and electrical wires arranged in precarious, crowded rat’s nests, in front of signs ironically advertising some technological gadget. Colourful piles of vegetables sit on bright blue tarps beside bulging sacks of grains, as brightly-painted bicycle rickshaws roll past.

At the south-end of Thamel is Durbar Square, an area of centuries-old temples, palaces and pigeon-filled squares. Where ancient tree roots entwine around carved archways and alcoves of small shrines, and windows of multi-leveled palaces are buttressed and framed with lavishly-carved screens and pillars. It is a thoroughly enchanting place to wander and let your eyes feast.

Pigeons on cows.

Namaste!