Last stop: Tokyo

I was still nursing some gastro troubles for our time in Tokyo, so we didn’t get to explore as much as we had hoped. But even with 6 months in Tokyo alone, it would still be difficult to explore it all. It’s big. The biggest city in the world by many counts. But for such a massive city, it doesn’t feel as overwhelming as you might expect, with so many spacious parks and temples and gardens. And it’s so clean! I’m pretty sure the streets of Tokyo are cleaner than some of the guesthouses we encountered earlier in our travels.

We wandered around Ueno Park, Asakusa, Shibuya, Ginza, and of course Shinjuku where our hotel was. We also went to a cat café! I can’t remember where I heard about this phenomenon, and I thought there was only one, but apparently there’s almost 40 of them throughout the city! Black cats, fat cats, or just a random assortment of cats – I know you probably all think I’m a crazy cat lady now, and you’re right, but it was a fun and unique experience. Only in Tokyo.

Also, before I wrap up my posts about Japan, there are three things about Japan that need mentioning: vending machines, toilets, and school kids.

(1) Vending machines – they are everywhere! Even in the quietest town (like Koyasan), they seem to be spaced at frequent intervals for all your beverage needs. You can get the typical selection of cold beverages (pops, iced teas, juices), but some vending machines also issue hot beverages. Yup, you can get hot canned coffee. It’s pretty cool. I mean hot. Good. Excellent. And there’s always a recycling bin right beside it for the empties.

(2) Toilets – the Japanese have perfected the bathroom experience; no consideration has been left out. Cold tushie? No problem: heated seats. Stage-fright? No worries: complimentary flushing sound or music. Ever feel that unfresh feeling? The Japanese have got you covered: your choice of bidet or spray functions – all of which have temperature and directional control.

(3) School Kids – in every city it seems to be Field Trip Day. Which also means Interview The Foreigners And Practice Your English Day. In Nara alone, we were approached by no less than seven groups of kids, all with varying degrees of confidence in their English skills. It’s generally the same series of questions: where are you from, what is your name, do you like [city name], what Japanese food do you like, etc, etc. Then they may ask for your signature, but will always, always ask for a photo. They are all impeccably polite, and adorable, and you might just get a little origami gift for your time.

Kyoto

Kyoto is a beautiful city, full of lovely parks, zen gardens, temples, riverside picnicking, busy shopping streets, and quiet forest pathways. Unfortunately I was fighting some sort of gastro bug (an Indian souvenir no doubt…), so we got out as much as possible, but certainly missed a lot. And who needs scrumptious okonomyaki, tempura, tepenyaki, and sushi when you can have rice and bananas?

Koyasan: the definition of serenity

And I thought Nara was serene! Koyasan is a peaceful and tranquil mountain-top town of centuries old monasteries and temples, and a pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Mark and I stayed at a monastery – the same one he stayed at when he came to Japan almost three years ago – and like his experience last time, we were the only two guests in the entire place! The long hallways were silent, save for the occasional pitter patter of the resident cat.

It was a traditional ryokan experience, sleeping on futons on tatami mats, and our lovely room looked out over the beautiful garden and coy pond. This unique B&B includes use of the onsen (bath/hot-tub), and a delectable, vegetarian, multi-course dinner and breakfast. Sort of like Japanese tapas. Or edible art. So many new and interesting flavours. And so much! Monks might eat with austerity, but they provide quite the feast for their guests!

We were also invited to join the head monk for his morning prayers. Since the morning prayer wasn’t until 7am, we woke up at 5am and walked along the Okunoin, the two-kilometre path lined with memorials, graves, and monuments, set amongst towering cedars, and leads to Gobyo Mausoleum where the founder of Koyasan, Kobo Daishi Kukai, is buried. It was so lovely walking amongst all this history, hearing the wind through the branches, while the morning sun began to brighten the forest.

Riding the cable car up to the top of Mount Koya.

Mark (Obi Wan) in the yukata robes they provide.

Our dinner and breakfast feasts were so beautifully presented!

Pleasantville. AKA Nara.

We left the relative chaos of Kathmandu, Nepal, and found ourselves surrounded by the complete and utter serenity of Nara, Japan. From one world, into another, very different one. Arriving to the jarring cleanliness and orderliness of Osaka's airport made us realize the level of dirt and disorderliness we had grown accustomed to. And the trains: so punctual, so fast! They arrived and departed precisely when the schedule said! There was a schedule! And the price was fixed as stated on the fare list! "Yeti, I don't think we're in Kathmandu anymore..."

Everything is so clean and well-put-together. The people are groomed and trimmed, the streets are impeccably clean, all the little trees are pruned into order and refinement. There hardly seems a need for anti-littering laws -- who would think of littering?! And quiet. No shouting, no honking, and even the cars are quieter. Probably electric.

I know Canada has a reputation of being polite, but seriously, Canadians, we need to up our game. The Japanese make us look like roughnecks. All the bowing and arigato gozaimasu's and giving and receiving things with two hands, wow. People are really passionate about their jobs and customer service, and it shows.

The whole experience is just so nice, and pleasant.

The deer of Nara.