Sunday, December 5, 2010

Golden, flaky crescents of bliss. From scratch.


Sometimes out of nowhere, I’ll decide to attempt something in the kitchen. Like the time I made a croquembouche for my parent's anniversary. It will come up in conversation or something, and I’ll say “hey, yeah, how is that made, anyway?” Something that once seemed too complex to ponder about it’s creation then becomes a new kitchen project. Croissants are one of those things. I knew—in the same vague, assumptive way that I know that cars run on gas—that it had something to do with layers. Layers of butter and dough and... air, magical, magical air. I also knew that, in my mind at least, it had that daunting, do-not-attempt-at-home feeling. But that just makes it all the more alluring.

Is there anything more beautiful that those flaky, airy layers of golden pastry? Just the thought of croissants makes me happy. Now, I strive to eat healthily and get my 5-10 servings of fruits and vegetables each and every day. And most days I do just that. But on every level—physiologically, physically, psychologically and spiritually—I don’t think I could live without croissants. Let’s just not even think about it; it’s too terrible to think about.


Mark and I came upon a bakery (I should get a bumper sticker that says “will brake for bakeries”) in Cheneville, on our way to Tremblant one day, and I can say, without hesitation, that the Boulangerie Paysanne makes the best croissants I have ever had.

So, with this impossible ideal as my goal, I set about finding a recipe to guide me in my quest. (I figured croissants were not a thing to just ‘wing it,’ for a novice like myself.) I knew it would require laborious work, but that didn’t deter me. It’s enjoyable to make something by hand that requires frequent attention (like bread) or constant attention (like risotto). I couldn't find a recipe in any of my books, but I found a
video which nicely illustrated each step. Amberlea-proof!

I don’t have a stand-mixer, but used my hand mixer, and things went fine enough from the beginning to the “cover with a towel and let rise until it doubles in size" stage. I could hardly wait without peeking. After the obligatory 1.5 to 2 hours I eagerly lifted the tea towel and found that it hadn’t risen. At all. The next step was to punch the dough, but it was already tough as a brick. At this point, expecting an A for effort, I was dismayed. Confused. What was wrong? Was the yeast bad? Should I try again?

Either because I’m an optimist, or because I hate doing things twice (and also “waste not want not”), I decided to carry on! Tough dough or not, I will make this work! And, basically, it did. Everything went otherwise to plan. The fact that they didn’t rise at any of the rising stages just meant they were smaller and a bit denser than expected. The first batch I baked according to the video instructions, but found the consistency a bit squishy/doughy in the middle, so the second batch was baked following these instructions, which did seem to yield a better texture. I think the flash bake at the higher temperature scared the butter into baking before it had a chance to leak out, though I did get a butter puddle both times, which made the bottoms a bit crispy and fried.

For my first attempt, despite the flat dough, I’m quite happy with how they turned out (especially the ones I rolled a bit of chocolate into!). Though, in the name of research (tasty, tasty research) I plan on trying different recipes and techniques as I pursue the elusive, perfect, croissant.

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