It is most definitely Grand.

Bangkok's Grand Palace is a jaw-dropping, fairytale-like complex of ornate temples and chedis, buddha statues, and manicured trees. It's no wonder it draws a crowd. And when I say crowd, I mean camera-toting tourists by the busload pouring through the gates. I would guess about 2000 per hour, easy. It's incredible.

Every inch of every towering chedi and buddha-housing wat is encrusted with colourful ceramic, glass, or gold tiles, and the effect is mesmerizing. From a distance what might appear as a uniform tone is actually a quilt of colours and textures up close.

For much of it's life, the Emerald Buddha had been encased in protective plaster; it wasn't until a fall in the 15th century, that it's emerald statue was revealed. And now, the relatively small buddha (just 66cm high), sits high atop a magnificently ornamented and brilliantly gold alter, rising nearly to the roof of the temple that surrounds it.

On the palace grounds is a new museum built by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, dedicated to the preservation of Thailand's textile arts. It has some fascinating exhibits about the role and production of silk, and the Queen's journey around Thailand to find samples and artists to keep this important cultural tradition alive.

Near the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, known for the massive reclining buddha that seems too big for the temple he lives in. At 46 m long, and 15 m high, this giant makes the Emerald Buddha look especially tiny!

Bangkok time

On day two we walked to Khao San Road, along streets lined with vendors selling colourful fruits and candies, sizzling meats, simmering fish; past wats and temples--quiet havens from the noise and bustle of the streets. Khao San Road itself is backpacker central, a crowded street overhanging with layers and layers of signs for cheap guesthouses, bars, nightclubs, restaurants; and of course vendors selling clothes, sunglasses, bags, buddha statues, cheap massages, and more and more food, all the while tuk tuks, motorbikes, cars, delivery vans honk and weave their way around each other and all the backpackers snapping pictures and doing their best to bargain.

We wandered around and through the alleyways toward the Democracy Monument, where we met a kind University professor from Chiang Mai named Daeng, and ended up spending an enjoyable afternoon with him, talking about language, and the differences between Canada and Thailand, politics, family, education, and of course food. He took us to a tucked away area of street vendors alongside a canal, where he taught us some Thai phrases, and helped us order some authentic pad thai (mai pet = not spicy), som tum (papaya salad), and some other dish of crispy fried pork wontons. I didn't see another tourist the entire time. The only downside was when it became clear that we were expected to pay for all of the beer that he'd been drinking, which detracted from the experience, and made us question his intentions. But on the plus side, the vendor beside the table we were at had about 10 cats, and she let me hold the tiniest one! So we said lakorn (goodbye), and went up to see the views from the The Golden Mount.

The Golden Mount is an artificial hill with a chedi on top, which houses a buddha image, and gives a pleasantly breezy, 360 degree view of Bangkok. From up here the din of the streets below fades into the background, and all you can hear is the cawing of colourful birds, and the sounding of gongs and the ringing of bells.

From there we walked to the Siam Discovery Mall (very western), and the MBK Centre (another mall) across the street. It was quite a contrast to see this slick, modern side of Bangkok. The air conditioning was a pleasant contrast, too.

Breakfast at our guesthouse

Welcome to Bangkok!

Oh goodness, where to begin! Bangkok is a completely overwhelming place. A calamity of sights and sounds and smells. Vibrant, gritty, colourful, intense -- pure sensory overload. On our first day, we inadvertently got on a 20 baht (about 65 cent) 4-hour tuk tuk tour where we had some unscheduled stops at various proprietors and had some awkward situations where we had to decline custom tailoring and two-week package tours of Thailand. But it was fun zipping around town in a tuk tuk! And for only 20 baht, we got to see a lot of the city, and visit a lot of incredibly beautiful wats.

Half a world away

Door to door transit hours: 32. Cab, plane, plane, shuttle, plane, cab. "Sleep" hours: 6. The first flight from Ottawa to Chicago I made the terrible, terrible mistake of trying to fly without Gravol. Spent the majority of the flight making sure the vomit bag was close at hand. Thank you, turbulence. Spent 4-hour layover in Chicago hiking it off, doing laps of the terminal wings, and trying to get some activity before the 13 hour flight to Tokyo. We flew with the sun the entire way, though it set a little bit over Alaska, then rose a little bit as we came south again. Strange. And oh my, the mountains of Alaska are spectacular! We could see Mount McKinley in the distance, though the closer peaks looked even bigger!

 

Though our layover in Tokyo was only an hour and a half, it was still enough time to experience a 4.8 earthquake. Lucky us! I was trying to nap on the floor by the boarding gate, and thought the vibration I felt was the first round of passengers walking down the boarding ramp, but then I sat up and looked at Mark, and realized it wasn't. But the cumulative effect of the Gravol in my system kept me relaxed. But still, Hello Earthquake not nearly as endearing as Hello Kitty.
 

Safely in the air again, we experienced the joy of Japanese hospitality. Japan Airlines really has it figured out. If it's this good in Economy, I wonder what it's like in Business Class. It's hard to even pin down what's different, but let me describe the food as a means of comparison. American Airlines: cold, clammy bun topped with grisly bologna and solidified Cheez Whiz. Japan Airlines: delectable, beautiful dishes of sushi, noodles, vegetables, crafted with care, served with non-plastic utensils. The good stuff.

 

In Bangkok, things went smoothly enough, but we definitely overpaid for the cab. We agreed upon a price before getting in the cab, but then of course as soon as we start driving away, he tells us that there will be an additional airport fee per person, plus a toll fee... What should have cost about $12 cost almost $20. But it was 12:30 am, and I just wanted to get there, so that the adventures could really begin!

 

 

Thereness. On the next flight out.

How many people have used this exact quote before embarking on a journey? I know, I know... but I love it, and it's very fitting right now, as I sit beside my packed backpack, waiting for 4am when the airport-bound cab arrives. Bowlines have been thrown off, and the safe harbor will soon be far away...

A sage gnome once wrote "Are you on a journey? My lungs are filling with purpose right now as my feet follow to find it."

Today, we begin our journey. I don't know what's in store, and I kind of like that. Don't quite know how to handle this thrilling feeling. But regardless, the bags are packed. It's time.

Excited? Li'l bit.

ONE. MORE. DAY.

After being in a state of disarray disaster for the last few days, the house finally seems to be falling into order: things are getting packed away to make room for our tenant; the cats are adjusting to their new environment at our friend's house; most of the goodbyes have been said, not much left to do now, except wait, and not even much of that left to do... It's so strange sitting on the edge of it like this! So many months of waiting and anticipating. So many things falling serendipitously into place. I cannot express my immense gratitude to the people who have supported us to get to this point. I'm the luckiest girl in the world. Oh great, here come the waterworks again!

As has been consistent for a few weeks, I'm an equal mix of excitement, nerves, disbelief, excitement, joy, anticipation, anxiety, excitement...

It's getting real

Things I'm leaving behind: routines, slippers, kitties, frost + cold, loved ones, epic Charades battles, reliable comfort, potable water.

The known. For the unknown.

Just a few photos of some of the many things I will miss, and let's not talk too much about it, or I will start to cry (again).

My movie buddy, who doesn't mind if it's Pride and Prejudice or The Three Amigos.

Kooky coworkers, and some attempted Hover Hands.

My work gang!

Good times!