Hiking in the Adirondacks

One of the many things I love about Ottawa is it's proximity to mountains. I don't mean Gatineau Park—not that it's not stunningly beautiful in it's own right—but I mean mountains. Real ones. From here it's just a quick 3-hour drive to the Adirondacks in New York, or about the same distance to the Laurentians in Quebec.

Algonquin Peak is the high peak just right of centre.

This past weekend Mark and I jumped on the fantastic forecast and headed south, across the border, to the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks (ADKs). We had our sights set to hike to the top of Algonquin, the second-highest peak of the High Peaks, and were keeping open the possibility of also ascending Wright on the same hike. There are 46 peaks above 4,000 feet in the Adirondacks, and it's a matter of pride to climb all 46 to be able to call yourself a 46'er.

We only found out about the whole thing just a couple of years ago, from our great friends D&P (who, sadly moved out west before we had a chance to climb any together!). They set us up with their old map and all sorts of very helpful information we've been using to make our way around the area, from where to camp, where to eat (more on that later!), and helpful websites, such as this gem.

Last year we got two peaks under our belts: Cascade and Porter. They're popular hikes, well travelled, and though they're supposed to be "easy," I found them to be quite challenging! They're sort of a package-deal too, because the route to Porter branches off near the top of the route to Cascade, so it makes sense to do both in one shot. I was exhausted at the end of that day. But what I'm learning about the High Peak hikes is that they're very direct. No gently ascending switchbacks. Nope, just the most direct way to the peak, no matter how steep, how many boulders or steep rockfaces are in your way, just up, up, and ever more up. So if you want a workout that will challenge you physically and mentally, head to the High Peaks. 

We got to bed early on Friday night to get an early start the following morning. We were on the trail just after 8, which is—honestly—later than we had hoped, but earlier than we've ever managed before. It started off easy, over a wooden boardwalk that crossed a pond, then gently sloping through beautiful forest, still cool in the early(ish) morning, but the trail started climbing quickly after a short while, and never stopped. Up, up, up. It was tough work, but it felt good to be in these mountains again, in these trees. We took lots of breaks, and the view opened up occasionally allowing us to gauge our progress based on how high or low the other mountains were, and for the most part, it felt like we were making good time. But then, after what felt like hours, we rounded a corner and caught a glimpse of large mountain that could only be Algonquin. Still so very, cruelly, far away. But it's the journey, right, not the destination?! 

Getting above the treeline.

My favourite part of the ascent was after the turnoff for Wright, when the dirt/boulder trail turned into large, smooth, steep expanses of rock that you really had to pause and assess to find the best way to tackle. Sometimes the poles were helpful, but for the most part I would have traded them for some nice grippy gloves at times like these. By this point also, the view started opening up and you can see how high you are and the glorious mountains around you.

Happy to contribute some rocks to the conservation effort!

I also really enjoyed the sub-alpine portion near the top, where the trees are stunted, dense and scrubby, and there is the most delicate, tiny flowers, and incredible colours of moss and lichen. It's just a beauty unlike any other. It is to this area that we deposited the rocks that we had brought from the trailhead, that the Summit Stewards will use to delineate the path, to protect the fragile flora. It's like Mountain Jenga: you take a rock from the bottom and you put it on top... 

Arriving at the top of the mountain is a really, really great feeling. It feels like a huge achievement, and the reward is being there. My absolute favourite part is when the view reveals itself as you take those final steps and the landscape on the other side of the mountain comes fully into sight. You've been on the mountain, within the trees, and watching your step, that it's so incredible to be able to lift your head and look around. And this is the kind of beauty that will bring tears to your eyes. It's truly, undeniably breathtaking. 

This makes Peak #3! Only 43 to go!

It was a Ridiculously Awesome Day (RAD) with a beautiful wind and glorious sunshine. I had thought it would be scorching at the top, but it was very comfortable, so we didn't have to seek shade, which is good, because there's not a lot of shade to be had at the top of a bald, granite peak. So we lounged, and lunched on our tuna sandwiches, and chatted with the Summit Steward (who's job it is to hike a peak everyday and educate people about the delicate flora. I would love to do that!). 

Mount Colden (with all the slides), and Mount Marcy behind it, the highest peak in NY.

Heading back down Algonquin to Wright, the granite peak behind.

It takes so much work to get to the top that you just want to stay there, but you can't linger too long, because you don't want to get stuck on the trail too late, or run out of food/water. So, with sad hearts, we said goodbye to the view, and headed back down the mountain. But before going all the way back, we thought, you know what, since we're here, we might as well climb Wright too. Though people said the ascent was more challenging and steep than Algonquin, it really wasn't so bad (probably because we were expecting the worst). There were lots of bald-face scrambles, but the worst part were the multiple "false tops" that kept pretending to be the peak, but then you'd get to the "top" and see a different, higher "top" farther above that one!

Ascending Wright, and looking across at Algonquin and the trail cutting through the forest.

But we did finally reach the summit, and had a spectacular 360, including a commanding view of Algonquin. We rested here for a while, snacked on some GORP and tried to imprint the scene on our brains. It's always so bittersweet at the top. You know you can't stay, but it's so achingly beautiful, and you know that it's a tough road to get back. If only there was a giant slide...

Wright Peak! Our 4th! Now for the remaining 42...

Hiking up is good, heart-pumping, physical work. The descent, however is hard on the knees, and requires a lot of concentration, because just one mis-step and you risk twisting an ankle (or worse), and though we have emergency supplies, it's a long way to have to piggy-back someone. Basically, the descent is a World of Hurt all its own, and the quickest way to get to the end of your humour. By the end, both of our knees were aching, and after 9 hours on the trail, we were happy to get to the end, for a very refreshing swim in Heart Lake. 

Heart Lake, a lovely lake for swimming. Plus there's great views of the mountains we just climbed!

Mark cooked us up some delectable pork souvlaki over the fire, which we enjoyed with some tasty cold beer, aptly named "Long Trail" and crashed before dark. 

HIKE SUMMARY:
Algonquin Peak
Ranking of height: 2nd      Elevation: 5114'      Ascent of climb: 2992' 
Length of roundtrip: 7.4 miles (12 km)
Wright Peak
Ranking of height: 16th      Elevation: 4580'      Ascent of climb: 2400' 
Distance from trail junction to peak, roundtrip: 1.0 miles (1.6 km)

Sunday, because apparently we are gluttons for pain and slightly masochistic, we went on another hike! Just a short one this time, up Owl's Head, which the Summit Steward had recommended as a great one for kids, first-timers, or those with aching muscles. The drive to the trailhead took us past Upper and Lower Cascade Lake which were stunning, with their sparkly surfaces looking so inviting for a swim.

Cascade Lake looking very enticing for a paddle or a swim...

It was a well-travelled path, sadly very eroded in many places, but through beautiful forest (and tasty blueberries!). The path winds a little bit, then opens up at the granite top where you scramble out onto a windy peak with a great view of the Keene Valley and Porter and Cascade Range. It was another RAD. We lounged in the breeze for a while, trying to absorb the incredible beauty, then made our way back. Though my calves were unbelievably sore and screaming what-did-you-do-to-me!, it was very do-able. (Knees were ok after a good night's sleep.)

Heading up the Owl's Head trail.

Then it was back to Lake Placid for the Obligatory Sandwiches from the Big Mountain Creperie and Deli where they have sandwiches named after each of the High Peaks. We're trying to only eat sandwiches of the peaks we've climbed, so we had the #2 and the #16. Delicious. And now I understand why Cascade (though challenging), is PB&J, and Algonquin is Roasted Turkey.

Then a swim in Mirror Lake, before starting the drive home. Two RADs, two more peaks climbed, 300 photos, and countless aching muscles. A spectacular weekend getting better acquainted with a place that feels more and more like home every time I visit.